Cherry Bounce — a quick Martha Washington‑style cordial

In common 18th-century fashion, the cherry bounce recipe attributed to Martha Washington calls for steeping fresh tart Morello cherries in sugar, spices and brandy for months, which allows the alcohol to pull intense flavor from the fruit. You can achieve similar results in a fraction of the time by heating the ingredients together briefly before steeping for just 24 hours. According to some lore, “bounce” refers to the arcane use of the word meaning to “hit” or “slap” because of the high alcohol content. Cherry bounce was a drink that showed off an 18th-century host’s wealth because, other than the cherries, most of the ingredients were imported and expensive. This version can make use of fresh cherries from the farmers market or frozen ones from the supermarket, depending on the time of year, but be sure that you use “tart” or “sour” cherries. Bing and other sweet varieties will make a cloying, syrupy drink. Cherry bounce is traditionally served as a simple cordial, but the ruby drink is also refreshing with seltzer, at a 1-to-3 ratio, and garnished with a slice of lemon. Although not conventional, the bounce is lovely warmed and served in a demitasse cup garnished with an orange peel twist.