Frijoles charros — smoky porky stewed beans

Frijoles charros are porky stewed beans named for the Mexican cowboys (charros) who traditionally prepared the dish over a campfire. Here, that flavor is evoked with canned fire-roasted tomatoes, but if that's not smoky enough for you, you can also drop in a couple chipotles in adobo. Tomatoes, bacon, garlic and anchovies (a non-traditional addition) all add savory notes to the beans. While any fresh chiles will work in the dish, Thai chiles carry a kick of heat and fruitiness that works especially well. A final topping of cilantro and scallions provides a touch of freshness.